I kept layering different areas, going grid by grid. To get the meteor crater effect I splattered whit paint randomly all over and used a small paint brush to show where lines MP3) by the blasts:. This is the last layer I painted. I used a dry brush to create the light wispy layers and alternated with different sizes of the brushes too:.

I love how it turned out. This is a wonderful craft to do with younger and older children alike, but make sure your child is old enough to not put their puffy paint hands in their mouth or eyes you're working with shaving cream after all! This space craft is a lot of fun to make with your child. Beware though - we went through a whole can of shaving cream playing with it after the craft was done!

While your child plays in the goop, cut a large circle out of the cardboard. The shapes that have straight lines are the areas that we need to start trying to get a better blend on. Sometimes when you see a detail you have to attack it right away. Anywaysin order to get the effect of a crater impact I used the straight edge of my brush and pulled out quickly. You want to make sure your paint is slightly watered down and then only load a tiny bet at the tip of your brush. I messed up a few times and had to paint over some of the bad ones.

One of the benefits of working in all these shades of gray is they are pretty easy to work with over each other. Just keep filling out the shapes where you identify them. Do your best to compare one shape to the other to determine the best size and placement of each one. The biggest changes in this one are the large dark spot near the top of the moon. It was too dark so I tried to make it a bit lighter and blend it better.

So look for areas MP3) your painting where you may have got the shade of gray a bit too dark and attempt to adjust it to match the reference. There were a number of white spots I still needed to add all over the moon. Some you can see as they stand out in the dark splotches but others are a bit more difficult to see unless you lean in close. For the darkest spot in the middle right side of the moon I added more tiny dark spots in an attempt to make it look more like the picture.

It still needs some better blending and some tiny white spots. To the right of that area I attempted to soften the blend to make it more gradually shift from dark to light back to dark again. Between details be sure to take a step back and view the picture as a whole. Sometimes when focused so intently on one tiny thing you may be forgetting to compare it to the larger picture. Other times being honed in on the minute details like that without worrying about the larger picture will allow the larger picture to come into focus.

You obviously want to use a much smaller brush as well. At times I should have switched to a smaller brush but it worked for most of this step. In the next step we should find a smaller brush to use as we will be trying to add more visible indents and craters on the north and south sided of the moon. Another area I added to was on the left side of the moon. For this area I made a shade of gray between the darkest blotch on the left side of the moon and the lighter areas both north and south of it.

I wanted to be careful with this as this is going to help make the moon look a bit more spherical. Once I had the right shade of gray mixed I dipped the brush in the water and Luik On The Moon - Paintbox.x - Transparence Nue (File wiped it off to make it damp and help water down the paint ever so slightly. Then I rubbed the brush on a clear area of the palette to ensure there was very little pigment on it and that it was watery enough.

Then I began to carefully and lightly add it both above and below the darkest spot on the left side of the moon. We still have a few more layers to go to fix it. We just have to add another layer or two and I think we can wrap it up and move on to the next one! I suppose we are working our way across various sections of the moon when it comes to adding the smaller details in.

First and foremost we had to fix that blending on the left side of the moon. While I was working on that I ended up painting over the two dark spots MP3) move them and try to make them more…crater-like?

There is no traceable for this one! I traced a plastic plate with a diameter of 7. You can find one that has a inch diameter. Position your canvas horizontally or vertically if you prefer and trace your circle with a pencil. Using the wet on wet blending technique, blend the phthalo blue into the white so that it turns to a lighter blue.

The intent with this technique is to allow a lighter blue to be closest to the circle and for the blue to get darker as it gets to the edge. Continue adding more phthalo blue to your brush and paint in circles working your way to the edges of the canvas. If you need to, add more titanium white to help with the blending transition of the light blue to the pure phthalo blue. Note that I did not rinse by brush anytime while painting this sky.

By the time you get to the edges, you should have pure phthalo blue. If you need to, wipe your brush off because it may be overloaded.

While I usually use a toothbrush for this step and you can tooI decided to try a different way this time to splatter my stars. Test out an area away from your canvas. Tap your loaded brush against another brush like tapping drumsticks together and let the splatters go on the surface.

Then when you feel confident, do so over your painting. Try to aim for a variety of splatters large and small. If you mess up, keep a Luik On The Moon - Paintbox.x - Transparence Nue (File wipe handy to sweep up and unwanted splatters. This is an easy but important step. I do wet on wet blending to paint my moons. I found that the round tip of the filbert allowed for softer strokes that were easy to blend. Then paint your first set of dark blotches.

I did my dark blotches in the upper left area of the moon…. And dabbled down to the middle left area.

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